David Mellor’s shop lives at No.4 Sloane Square in London, yards from the Royal Court Theatre. I would at this point in my life far rather go into a kitchen shop and buy a chopping board than go and see a play, or indeed audition for one. In fact, I steer well clear, scared of bumping into someone from my former life, the theatre bar at the Royal Court witness to a handful of deeply felt humiliations. A theatre bar is not in and of itself a relaxing place to be anyway; everyone is subtly networking or nervous for a friend or relative about to perform (or jealous), everyone is sweeping the room, status – yours and theirs – is being constantly, silently re-negotiated.
You can’t just go up to someone. Which is what I used to do before I realized it was not done. There’s Tom Stoppard! Why, he gave me a small but not insignificant cheque at the beginning of my drama school career. I shall go over and thank him in person. Why not? He looked through me. And then he carried on smoking.
I never developed the right persona – some people do and it’s like armour, I suppose. I know them – charming, robust, flirtatious when needed, personal and then oddly impersonal. After my theatre bar exchanges, after auditions, and meetings, I always felt as if I’d just emerged from a car crash. Or a beheading.
I think that’s when I started going into kitchen shops and reading cookbooks; the balm at the end of a day of commercial castings, speaking my name and my agent’s into a camera before pretending to have road rage or candida (sometimes both). At David Mellor’s I headed straight for the chopping boards, past the sparkling glasses and his signature cutlery. And there it was; the smooth, rounded rectangular board with the hole in it. I had been admiring it at my cousin’s. New it was planed smooth of any imperfections, a plain, pale ash wood, but I knew what it would become with time.
I have always had a thing about chopping boards – I notice them in the same way people notice shoes or jewellery. A chopping board is a living thing and the more it lives with you the more it absorbs all the things you chop on it. I love the way Becky’s board has those little serrations all round the edge, which makes me wonder what they were for and why the centre is relatively empty.
I suppose you could call it a character study. Though I like a bit of pummelling and pounding – the vivifying effects of a pestle and mortar – there’s something to be said for smashing something, breaking it, or chopping it, or creaming it with a knife. You know the way that garlic can be chopped into a paste, the knife swishing this way and that like a paintbrush until the garlic is practically emollient: I like that.
So I bought the chopping board, and the beautiful, slightly MI5 assistant wrapped it in white paper and slipped it into a black paper bag, and we emerged into the Sunday sunlight and walked to the Tate. All the way there and all the way back, (and during) I thought about the board; what I would anoint it with. Garlic. Lemon zest. Parsley or basil. Splat, Chop, chop, scrape, crunch, chop, chop, chop, chop, swipe, swipe, bang. Smile. Repeat to fade.
You can make a pesto (basil, garlic, pine nuts, parmesan) or a picada (Catalan version with parsley and almonds) or a pistou (Provencal version using garlic, basil and oil) on a chopping board, as long as you transfer everything to a bowl before adding the oil (though olive oil is the perfect way to replenish your board – rub it in with a soft, lint-free rag if you have any spillage). Gremolata is a ‘dry’ sauce usually served with osso buco (braised veal shank) and uses garlic and parsley and lots of lemon zest. Try two large handfuls of parsley, the zest of two lemons and two cloves of garlic, reducing them all to a thick slurry. The board, the kitchen, your hands and you will smell intensely of these things afterwards.
More on David Mellor here.
I love David Mellors knives – beautiful design. I’ve seen some of his factory’s stuff (not just cutlery) in the Sheffield museum. The main factory (with fabulous on-site cafe) is located near me in Hathersage, Derbyshire. Your board is lovely. What kind of wood?
Hello there – the chopping board is made of ash. How lucky you are to be near his factory. My dad is a Derbyshire man, and I know it is a very special place. Thanks for visiting. x
I loved:
charming, robust, flirtatious when needed, personal and then oddly impersonal
I could absolutely manifest this in my mind – I watch these people with awe, jealousy and contempt. How do they manage the balance?
Great post!
Thank you so much. Yes, it’s a fearsome balance. Sounds quite exhausting, doesn’t it. x
Reblogged this on Living and Lovin.
Thank you for the reblog x
You are very welcome 🙂 I love sharing good blogs 🙂
Your descriptions are wonderful…I can just imagine what it felt like to visit the theater bar and like you, I probably would have started visited the kitchen shops as well 🙂 I look at my cutting boards from time to time and think that maybe some of them should be renewed, but I do nothing and so passes another year and more marks are added to the previous.
Thank you Laila. I like the sound of your old and weary cutting boards. Hold on to them and given them a good going over with some olive oil 🙂 xxx
Lovely blog. I’d have had massive Becky’s cutting board envy too. Gives me great pleasure to think of you both sitting in her kitchen by it. So glad you escaped the theatre life. Me too. Sometimes I miss the people, but I was in a management role and never on the scary rejection end of things, I wouldn’t wish that side of it on anyone. Hope you are well and happy.
Hannah
Hello Hannah – very nice surprise to hear from you! Glad you escaped too, though I miss my drama school years and the occasional times when the work and people were perfect. Thank you for following the blog – I hear you are also US based? Sophie
pesto picada pistou … love the names and love it all. What a cool post
Yes, they’re lovely aren’t they – I hear a poem x
“…road rage or candida…” Oh God. I love artifacts that show their owners’ usage; knife handles whose slopped sides conform to the bones in the hands of their cook owners, cookbooks (any books!) with marginalia, your cutting board. There is something poignant in this minute fragments of DNA that call up their invisible employers. When Jody and I were in Puglia we worked with a young chef whose inherited pastry marble had a pair of grooves worn in the front edge from thousands of hours of contact with his mother’s wrists. Lovely piece, as always. Ken
That’s so lovely Ken – the two grooves where her wrists had been. And marginalia – favourite word of the week thanks to you. Everyone keeps saying cutting board – am I wrong to say chopping board? x
Hmm. I’m not sure. Do you distinguish between chopping boards and chopping blocks in England? Your “chopping board” would be considered a “cutting board” in the United States. Cutting boards are cut with the grain, just like, erm, a board. “Chopping blocks In the US, a “chopping block” may have the same length and width as a cutting board but is usually considerably thicker. The difference goes greater than thickness. Imagine a tree trunk. A cutting board is a small section of a lengthwise slice of the tree. A chopping block however is made from many lengthwise slices that are stacked and then cut across the grain. The pieces are glued together. The result is a much more durable–and expensive–surface that will take a serious beating (that one might incur from say, using a cleaver), and not dull knives as quickly. That said, some home cooks refer to their chopping blocks as cutting boards. That distinction, by the way, is the original inspiration for “butcher block” surfaces. Ken
You had me at hmm. Yes, I think you’re right on all counts (all the time ever). Never been a fan of the chopping block though now – and for the first time – I understand the difference. Please write an encyclopedia. Thank you. x
Well, I’m going to London in April. So nice to know of this store. Now I get to spend even more money on my trip!!!
Sounds like a room full of musicians… not that I am one myself- merely a daughter and a wife to two.
Lovely new chopping board and beautiful garlic, I’d like to grow.
Thank you – less of the ‘merely’ though! Yes, to grow garlic would be a very sensible and lovely thing to do x